Discussion:
Battery connectors in Schleicher gliders
(too old to reply)
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-29 00:14:01 UTC
Permalink
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.

Thanks.

-Dan
Eric Greenwell
2004-07-29 01:23:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Could you describe these? The "battery connectors" that came on my ASH
26 are simply crimped on "ring" style connectors bolted to the battery
terminals. Perhaps you are thinking of a battery box supplied by Dittel?
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-29 02:30:09 UTC
Permalink
No, this is not the battery box supplied by Dittel. I had one of those in my
LS3-17, and this is not one of them.

It is interesting to note however that the connector in the LS3-17 that
plugged into the Dittel box is exactly the same one that is in my ASW-27B
that I am trying to match. However, the female connector supplied by
Schleicher for my batteries looks completely different than the connector on
the side of the Dittel box that I had.

The outside of the both the male and female plugs are made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a "T" configuration. I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.

When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors into the plastic "T"
holder, and they click into place.

It's too bad that it is frowned upon to post pictures to his newsgroup. A
picture would be much easier to understand.

-Dan
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Could you describe these? The "battery connectors" that came on my ASH
26 are simply crimped on "ring" style connectors bolted to the battery
terminals. Perhaps you are thinking of a battery box supplied by Dittel?
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Eric Greenwell
2004-07-29 03:32:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
No, this is not the battery box supplied by Dittel. I had one of those in my
LS3-17, and this is not one of them.
It is interesting to note however that the connector in the LS3-17 that
plugged into the Dittel box is exactly the same one that is in my ASW-27B
that I am trying to match. However, the female connector supplied by
Schleicher for my batteries looks completely different than the connector on
the side of the Dittel box that I had.
The outside of the both the male and female plugs are made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a "T" configuration. I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.
When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors into the plastic "T"
holder, and they click into place.
OK, the connector for the tail battery in my glider looks like that.
Unfortunately, I don't know who makes it, and I couldn't find any in the
Digikey catalog. I did make a mating connector using standard "Faston"
style terminals, then potting them in epoxy. It was used to connect a
solar cell charger to the tail connector while the glider was in the
trailer.
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Simon Waddell
2004-07-29 07:42:35 UTC
Permalink
Check a few model shops - these sound like the connectors used on the
high-current NiCad battery packs used in electric model race cars (Tamiya is
a major supplier)
Post by Dan Dunkel
No, this is not the battery box supplied by Dittel. I had one of those in my
LS3-17, and this is not one of them.
It is interesting to note however that the connector in the LS3-17 that
plugged into the Dittel box is exactly the same one that is in my ASW-27B
that I am trying to match. However, the female connector supplied by
Schleicher for my batteries looks completely different than the connector on
the side of the Dittel box that I had.
The outside of the both the male and female plugs are made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a "T" configuration. I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.
When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors into the plastic "T"
holder, and they click into place.
It's too bad that it is frowned upon to post pictures to his newsgroup. A
picture would be much easier to understand.
-Dan
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without
knowing
Post by Dan Dunkel
the
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Could you describe these? The "battery connectors" that came on my ASH
26 are simply crimped on "ring" style connectors bolted to the battery
terminals. Perhaps you are thinking of a battery box supplied by Dittel?
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Neil Allison
2004-07-29 08:48:55 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
The outside of the both the male and female plugs are made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a "T" configuration. I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.
When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors into the plastic "T"
holder, and they click into place.
It's too bad that it is frowned upon to post pictures to his newsgroup. A
picture would be much easier to understand.
-Dan
Hi Dan,

From your description, these sound like the AMP (Tyco electronics)
0.250 Series Fastin-Faston e.g. p/n 180907-0 and 180908-0.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/19783.pdf

Farnell has these in their catalogue under their part numbers 964-748
(receptacle housing) and 964-839. Newark is the USA part of the Farnell
group.

If I'm totally wrong, my apologies - I'm a new pilot & elec engineer not
an avionics engr or owner :)

Regards
Neil
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-31 14:22:11 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for the help.

Indeed this page seems to show the parts. The only quiestion that I have is
whether the receptical (male end) is part number 926474-1 or part number
180907-0. They seem very similar. The page you reference seems to show
that it is part 926474.

I also need the connectors that go in these holders. From what I can find
out, they seem to be parts AMP 6-160448-5 (for the recptical) and AMP
42460-2 (for the tab).

The research continues...

-Dan
Post by Neil Allison
Hi Dan,
From your description, these sound like the AMP (Tyco electronics)
0.250 Series Fastin-Faston e.g. p/n 180907-0 and 180908-0.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/19783.pdf
Farnell has these in their catalogue under their part numbers 964-748
(receptacle housing) and 964-839. Newark is the USA part of the Farnell
group.
If I'm totally wrong, my apologies - I'm a new pilot & elec engineer not
an avionics engr or owner :)
Regards
Neil
Vaughn
2004-07-31 15:07:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
Indeed this page seems to show the parts. The only quiestion that I have is
whether the receptical (male end) is part number 926474-1 or part number
180907-0. They seem very similar. The page you reference seems to show
that it is part 926474.
I also need the connectors that go in these holders. From what I can find
out, they seem to be parts AMP 6-160448-5 (for the recptical) and AMP
42460-2 (for the tab).
The research continues...
I know it seem almost too obvious but did you do any research here?
http://www.amp.com/

Vaughn
Graeme Cant
2004-07-29 11:55:11 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
The outside of the both the male and female plugs are made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a "T" configuration. I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.
When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors into the plastic "T"
holder, and they click into place.
These sound like the same connectors sold in auto supply shops in Oz
under the brand name 'Utilux' (made by Tyco). The blades are about
4-5mm wide in cars but I think other sizes exist. The T connector is
used to ensure correct polarity. They were used on UK cars (and may
still be if such a thing still exists).

I suggest you take it to a nearby British car specialist/wrecker (or
European, since they were installed on the glider by Germans) and see if
he recognises them. Alternatively, Googling 'Utilux' may give clues to
US suppliers.

HTH
Graeme Cant
Post by Dan Dunkel
It's too bad that it is frowned upon to post pictures to his newsgroup. A
picture would be much easier to understand.
-Dan
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing
the
Post by Eric Greenwell
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Could you describe these? The "battery connectors" that came on my ASH
26 are simply crimped on "ring" style connectors bolted to the battery
terminals. Perhaps you are thinking of a battery box supplied by Dittel?
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Mark Zivley
2004-07-29 01:22:56 UTC
Permalink
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
BTIZ
2004-07-29 02:12:36 UTC
Permalink
Radio Shack two wire "Trailer plugs" work great..

BT
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Mark Zivley
2004-07-30 12:27:48 UTC
Permalink
If they are the black plugs w/ one female and one male connection on
each end I don't like those. Due to the mirrored design it then becomes
possible to plug two battery connectors into each other and then you
have a 24 volt battery that is short circuited! The good news is that
the wire gauge that is in the trailer wire pigtails is small enough that
it becomes it's own fuse after a few moments... Best to have connectors
which prevent that possibility unless you only have a single battery
system.
Post by BTIZ
Radio Shack two wire "Trailer plugs" work great..
BT
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing
the
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Vaughn Simon
2004-07-30 16:21:35 UTC
Permalink
Post by Mark Zivley
If they are the black plugs w/ one female and one male connection on
each end I don't like those.
I don't think that is the connector that they are discussing here.
Post by Mark Zivley
Due to the mirrored design it then becomes
possible to plug two battery connectors into each other and then you
have a 24 volt battery that is short circuited!
First of all, it would take an idiot to do that and it would be very
unlikely to happen in flight. Second, it is very good practice to have a
fuse right at the battery terminal; which would immediately blow in case of
any short circuit or idiocy .
Post by Mark Zivley
The good news is that
the wire gauge that is in the trailer wire pigtails is small enough that
it becomes it's own fuse after a few moments...
Actually, those connectors are available in a variety of wire guages,
but they are hard to find and I always seem to need to hunt for a new source
when I run out. ...And I DO run out because I rather like them, they go
together fairly easily, never come apart accidently, and seem to tolerate
moisture, dirt and other abuse without problems

Vaughn.
Post by Mark Zivley
Best to have connectors
which prevent that possibility unless you only have a single battery
system.
Post by BTIZ
Radio Shack two wire "Trailer plugs" work great..
BT
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing
the
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Mark Zivley
2004-07-30 19:17:02 UTC
Permalink
FOrtunatly it hasn't happened to me, but I've seen the results. It
didn't happen in the plane, but when there were a handful being plugged
into chargers in a hurry at the end of the day and when the connectors
on the chargers are the same it just so happened that someone grabbed
two batteries and plugged them together. I agree w/ the rest of your
comments.
Post by Vaughn Simon
Post by Mark Zivley
If they are the black plugs w/ one female and one male connection on
each end I don't like those.
I don't think that is the connector that they are discussing here.
Post by Mark Zivley
Due to the mirrored design it then becomes
possible to plug two battery connectors into each other and then you
have a 24 volt battery that is short circuited!
First of all, it would take an idiot to do that and it would be very
unlikely to happen in flight. Second, it is very good practice to have a
fuse right at the battery terminal; which would immediately blow in case of
any short circuit or idiocy .
Post by Mark Zivley
The good news is that
the wire gauge that is in the trailer wire pigtails is small enough that
it becomes it's own fuse after a few moments...
Actually, those connectors are available in a variety of wire guages,
but they are hard to find and I always seem to need to hunt for a new source
when I run out. ...And I DO run out because I rather like them, they go
together fairly easily, never come apart accidently, and seem to tolerate
moisture, dirt and other abuse without problems
Vaughn.
Post by Mark Zivley
Best to have connectors
which prevent that possibility unless you only have a single battery
system.
Post by BTIZ
Radio Shack two wire "Trailer plugs" work great..
BT
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without
knowing
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by BTIZ
the
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Todd Pattist
2004-08-02 13:09:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by Vaughn Simon
Actually, those connectors are available in a variety of wire guages,
but they are hard to find and I always seem to need to hunt for a new source
when I run out. ...And I DO run out because I rather like them
I've had good luck finding them at the local auto parts
store near the trailer connectors.
Todd Pattist - "WH" Ventus C
(Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-30 22:03:12 UTC
Permalink
Obviously, my description of the part was not good enough.

I believe that I have finally found the part number for the male end. It's
an AMP 926474. I have also found a picture of it on the Web:
http://www.platan.ru/pdf/00135.pdf. It is the part in middle of the 4th
row.

The metal parts that are crimped on the wires before they are inserted into
the plastic holder appear to be depicted on the bottom of the same page.

I hope this helps clear up some misunderstandings

I cannot read this page since I do not read the language in which it is
written.

-Dan
Post by Mark Zivley
If they are the black plugs w/ one female and one male connection on
each end I don't like those. Due to the mirrored design it then becomes
possible to plug two battery connectors into each other and then you
have a 24 volt battery that is short circuited! The good news is that
the wire gauge that is in the trailer wire pigtails is small enough that
it becomes it's own fuse after a few moments... Best to have connectors
which prevent that possibility unless you only have a single battery
system.
Graeme Cant
2004-07-31 15:00:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
Obviously, my description of the part was not good enough.
I believe that I have finally found the part number for the male end. It's
http://www.platan.ru/pdf/00135.pdf. It is the part in middle of the 4th
row.
I'm sure they're the connectors I described. Here's a URL in English
which I'm sure you'll find more readable. This is a 4.8mm receptacle
but it's the same design as your URL shows.

http://www.tycoelectronics.com.au/__data/page/1009/25449.pdf

You'll find the same designs in the UK Utilux catalogue. The tabs come
in 2.3, 2.8, 3, 4.8, 6, 6.3 and 9.5mm widths. I'd think yours are
probably 4.8mm.

You seem a little uptight about using only approved parts so you
probably won't go down this path but I still think your easiest source
is a European or British car wrecker, parts specialist or auto electrician.

Graeme Cant
Post by Dan Dunkel
The metal parts that are crimped on the wires before they are inserted into
the plastic holder appear to be depicted on the bottom of the same page.
I hope this helps clear up some misunderstandings
I cannot read this page since I do not read the language in which it is
written.
-Dan
Robin Birch
2004-08-01 16:50:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by Graeme Cant
Post by Dan Dunkel
Obviously, my description of the part was not good enough.
I believe that I have finally found the part number for the male end. It's
http://www.platan.ru/pdf/00135.pdf. It is the part in middle of the 4th
row.
I'm sure they're the connectors I described. Here's a URL in English
which I'm sure you'll find more readable. This is a 4.8mm receptacle
but it's the same design as your URL shows.
http://www.tycoelectronics.com.au/__data/page/1009/25449.pdf
Oh that's what you have been talking about - spade connectors. These
are widely used in USA, UK, Mainland Europe and can be purchased in bulk
from RS, FARNEL, Maplins and just about any car parts shop.

They are ok but aren't really best for multiple connects/disconnects.
Best either replace them with some form of inline connector or make up
some short leads that have an inline connector at one end and these at
the other.

The favourites for these appear to be either cannon two or three pin
ones or screw together loudspeaker connectors.

Robin
Post by Graeme Cant
You'll find the same designs in the UK Utilux catalogue. The tabs come
in 2.3, 2.8, 3, 4.8, 6, 6.3 and 9.5mm widths. I'd think yours are
probably 4.8mm.
You seem a little uptight about using only approved parts so you
probably won't go down this path but I still think your easiest source
is a European or British car wrecker, parts specialist or auto
electrician.
Graeme Cant
Post by Dan Dunkel
The metal parts that are crimped on the wires before they are inserted into
the plastic holder appear to be depicted on the bottom of the same page.
I hope this helps clear up some misunderstandings
I cannot read this page since I do not read the language in which it is
written.
-Dan
--
Robin Birch
Martin Gregorie
2004-08-02 09:25:09 UTC
Permalink
On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 17:50:58 +0100, Robin Birch
Post by Robin Birch
Post by Graeme Cant
Post by Dan Dunkel
Obviously, my description of the part was not good enough.
I believe that I have finally found the part number for the male end. It's
http://www.platan.ru/pdf/00135.pdf. It is the part in middle of the 4th
row.
I'm sure they're the connectors I described. Here's a URL in English
which I'm sure you'll find more readable. This is a 4.8mm receptacle
but it's the same design as your URL shows.
http://www.tycoelectronics.com.au/__data/page/1009/25449.pdf
Oh that's what you have been talking about - spade connectors. These
are widely used in USA, UK, Mainland Europe and can be purchased in bulk
from RS, FARNEL, Maplins and just about any car parts shop.
They are ok but aren't really best for multiple connects/disconnects.
Best either replace them with some form of inline connector or make up
some short leads that have an inline connector at one end and these at
the other.
The favourites for these appear to be either cannon two or three pin
ones or screw together loudspeaker connectors.
XLR connectors work well too. They are a locking connector. You can
get both genders as either inline or chassis-mount forms.

I use XLR inline sockets on the batteries and XLR chassis plugs on the
airframe. They were designed for professional audio applications, so
will handle a lot of current. Maplins and RS both stock them.

Put spade connectors on the battery connected to the XLR inline socket
by a short length of mains cable and while you're on the job fit a
self-resetting fuse in the positive line. These are inexpensive solid
state devices that go open circuit if overloaded and turn back on
after 30 seconds or so.
--
martin@ : Martin Gregorie
gregorie : Harlow, UK
demon :
co : Zappa fan & glider pilot
uk :
Graeme Cant
2004-08-02 11:26:57 UTC
Permalink
Post by Martin Gregorie
Put spade connectors on the battery connected to the XLR inline socket
by a short length of mains cable and while you're on the job fit a
self-resetting fuse in the positive line. These are inexpensive solid
state devices that go open circuit if overloaded and turn back on
after 30 seconds or so.
My batteries are set up as you describe but I use spade connector auto
fuses. Can you give a make/model or URL for those self-resetting fuses
you mention?

Tks
Graeme
Martin Gregorie
2004-08-02 20:51:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by Graeme Cant
Post by Martin Gregorie
Put spade connectors on the battery connected to the XLR inline socket
by a short length of mains cable and while you're on the job fit a
self-resetting fuse in the positive line. These are inexpensive solid
state devices that go open circuit if overloaded and turn back on
after 30 seconds or so.
My batteries are set up as you describe but I use spade connector auto
fuses. Can you give a make/model or URL for those self-resetting fuses
you mention?
RS Components Cat No 283-8784. This is rated for 5A fuse and 16v, cost
£0.854 each. Orders must be multiples of 5.

I'm actually using a blue rectangular unit with the part number
AN2-5A. These were fitted when I bought the glider. I've run web
searches, but can't identify the brand or a source for them. I believe
they have a similar rating to the RS part.
--
martin@ : Martin Gregorie
gregorie : Harlow, UK
demon :
co : Zappa fan & glider pilot
uk :
Larry Goddard
2004-08-03 03:27:15 UTC
Permalink
These resettable fuses are good devices. I use them in the ::Goddard:: power
supply units that we manufacture.

Look closely at the specs because they have an ambiguous range in their
behavior. You will normally find two specifications rather than one such as "5
amp" on fuses. These units will have 'guaranteed break' and 'guaranteed hold'
ratings. For instance, the guaranteed break point might be 5 amps, but the
guaranteed hold would be only 3 amps. In between these two points the condition
is ambiguous... might be "on" and might be "off". So pick a device where the
"guaranteed hold" rating is a somewhat above the minimum required. then you
should be fine.

Larry Goddard
"01" Zero One
USA
Post by Martin Gregorie
Post by Graeme Cant
Post by Martin Gregorie
Put spade connectors on the battery connected to the XLR inline socket
by a short length of mains cable and while you're on the job fit a
self-resetting fuse in the positive line. These are inexpensive solid
state devices that go open circuit if overloaded and turn back on
after 30 seconds or so.
My batteries are set up as you describe but I use spade connector auto
fuses. Can you give a make/model or URL for those self-resetting fuses
you mention?
RS Components Cat No 283-8784. This is rated for 5A fuse and 16v, cost
£0.854 each. Orders must be multiples of 5.
I'm actually using a blue rectangular unit with the part number
AN2-5A. These were fitted when I bought the glider. I've run web
searches, but can't identify the brand or a source for them. I believe
they have a similar rating to the RS part.
--
gregorie : Harlow, UK
co : Zappa fan & glider pilot
Martin Gregorie
2004-08-03 09:49:42 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for that, Larry: caused me to go and do some reading, and most
interesting it was too.

It looks like the type I quoted would be fine for our purposes (in
series with a 7 AH 12v gel cell). Its a general purpose type. The
hold current is 5 amps at 20C reducing to 2.4 A at 85C. Minimum trip
level 8.5 amps at 20C, trip time 2 secs at 25 A. Untripped resistance
0.017 ohms. This type would appear to be suitable for the type of load
we apply in a glider.

It also looks like the temperature environment is fine if we mount the
device on the battery and install the combination in the cockpit.
Post by Larry Goddard
These resettable fuses are good devices. I use them in the ::Goddard:: power
supply units that we manufacture.
Look closely at the specs because they have an ambiguous range in their
behavior. You will normally find two specifications rather than one such as "5
amp" on fuses. These units will have 'guaranteed break' and 'guaranteed hold'
ratings. For instance, the guaranteed break point might be 5 amps, but the
guaranteed hold would be only 3 amps. In between these two points the condition
is ambiguous... might be "on" and might be "off". So pick a device where the
"guaranteed hold" rating is a somewhat above the minimum required. then you
should be fine.
Larry Goddard
"01" Zero One
USA
Post by Martin Gregorie
Post by Graeme Cant
Post by Martin Gregorie
Put spade connectors on the battery connected to the XLR inline socket
by a short length of mains cable and while you're on the job fit a
self-resetting fuse in the positive line. These are inexpensive solid
state devices that go open circuit if overloaded and turn back on
after 30 seconds or so.
My batteries are set up as you describe but I use spade connector auto
fuses. Can you give a make/model or URL for those self-resetting fuses
you mention?
RS Components Cat No 283-8784. This is rated for 5A fuse and 16v, cost
£0.854 each. Orders must be multiples of 5.
I'm actually using a blue rectangular unit with the part number
AN2-5A. These were fitted when I bought the glider. I've run web
searches, but can't identify the brand or a source for them. I believe
they have a similar rating to the RS part.
--
gregorie : Harlow, UK
co : Zappa fan & glider pilot
--
martin@ : Martin Gregorie
gregorie : Harlow, UK
demon :
co : Zappa fan & glider pilot
uk :
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-29 02:26:30 UTC
Permalink
You are probably correct that it would make sense to just replace the
connectors with ones that are readily available in the U.S. and are easier
to connect & disconnect. The reason is that I don't is that the glider is
not "Expermintal". I don't know if it is proper procedure to be replacing
them without a 377 and by me.

Even worse are the fuses installed by Schleicher. The fuse is held in a tube
by a spring. When the wire is moved, the tension on the spring changes. If
the wire is moved too much, the fuse comes loose and the circuit is broken.
Most any movement of the wire causes the voltage to change at the panel. In
my opinion, it's a poor design for this application. I would really like to
replace it with a blade fuse (used in most cars) but I haven't for the same
reasons that I haven't replace the battery connectors.

-Dan
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
BTIZ
2004-07-29 04:45:04 UTC
Permalink
you can get an inline fuse at Radio Shack.. and it holds the standard buss
type fuse.

always, a buss fuse between the battery terminal and the connector...
plus the fuses built into your system

BT
Post by Dan Dunkel
You are probably correct that it would make sense to just replace the
connectors with ones that are readily available in the U.S. and are easier
to connect & disconnect. The reason is that I don't is that the glider is
not "Expermintal". I don't know if it is proper procedure to be replacing
them without a 377 and by me.
Even worse are the fuses installed by Schleicher. The fuse is held in a tube
by a spring. When the wire is moved, the tension on the spring changes. If
the wire is moved too much, the fuse comes loose and the circuit is broken.
Most any movement of the wire causes the voltage to change at the panel. In
my opinion, it's a poor design for this application. I would really like to
replace it with a blade fuse (used in most cars) but I haven't for the same
reasons that I haven't replace the battery connectors.
-Dan
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without
knowing
Post by Dan Dunkel
the
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Eric Greenwell
2004-07-29 05:12:33 UTC
Permalink
Post by BTIZ
you can get an inline fuse at Radio Shack.. and it holds the standard buss
type fuse.
always, a buss fuse between the battery terminal and the connector...
If the fuse will be mounted on the battery pack, I'd suggest the
automotive blade type for a smaller, sturdier, lower resistance, more
reliable fuse.
Post by BTIZ
plus the fuses built into your system
Good advice, regardless of the fuse type.
--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Bob Korves
2004-07-30 04:27:11 UTC
Permalink
Dan,
It sounds like you want the connector to _look_ factory instead of _be_
factory. This is a mistake. If you are trying to be legal and true to the
type certificate, then buy your connectors from John Murray or Schleicher.
I doubt, however, that they can or will supply a "yellow tag" like the one
that comes with genuine USA aircraft parts. The paper trail is the
important part, not just where you purchase the part (on certified
aircraft).

I suppose you could use a form 337 (not 377) and get an approval for an
authorized field change but I really doubt that anybody knows or cares about
those battery connectors, which probably aren't even listed on the Type
Certificate or in the official parts book for the aircraft.

Cessna drivers know that they can buy a battery contactor at the local auto
parts store, that looks exactly like the Cessna part (and comes off the same
assembly line) but that part is not legal and there is not a proper paper
trail on the part. That is not to say that there are not Cessnas out there
with auto parts store contactors that work just fine and cost a small
fraction of the cost of the Cessna part. Just don't get caught...

Did you plan to hire an A&P to install the connector? 8-)
-Bob
Post by Dan Dunkel
You are probably correct that it would make sense to just replace the
connectors with ones that are readily available in the U.S. and are easier
to connect & disconnect. The reason is that I don't is that the glider is
not "Expermintal". I don't know if it is proper procedure to be replacing
them without a 377 and by me.
Even worse are the fuses installed by Schleicher. The fuse is held in a tube
by a spring. When the wire is moved, the tension on the spring changes. If
the wire is moved too much, the fuse comes loose and the circuit is broken.
Most any movement of the wire causes the voltage to change at the panel. In
my opinion, it's a poor design for this application. I would really like to
replace it with a blade fuse (used in most cars) but I haven't for the same
reasons that I haven't replace the battery connectors.
-Dan
Post by Mark Zivley
You're probably better off just eliminating the connectors provided by
the factory and going down to your local electronics outlet and buying a
couple sets of connectors.
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery
connectors
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find
them on
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without
knowing
Post by Dan Dunkel
the
Post by Mark Zivley
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Thanks.
-Dan
Andy Blackburn
2004-07-29 03:23:05 UTC
Permalink
John Murray at Eastern Sailplane stocks them for a
few dollars each.

http://www.easternsailplane.com

I've always used them because they make a much more
solid electrical and physical connection than other
connectors I've seen used in sailplanes.

9B
Post by Dan Dunkel
No, this is not the battery box supplied by Dittel.
I had one of those in my
LS3-17, and this is not one of them.
It is interesting to note however that the connector
in the LS3-17 that
plugged into the Dittel box is exactly the same one
that is in my ASW-27B
that I am trying to match. However, the female connector
supplied by
Schleicher for my batteries looks completely different
than the connector on
the side of the Dittel box that I had.
The outside of the both the male and female plugs are
made of white plastic.
The two contacts are arranged in a 'T' configuration.
I would describe the
contacts as flat blades.
When you build one of these connectors, you first crimp
a blade connector on
to each wire. You then slip each of the two connectors
into the plastic 'T'
holder, and they click into place.
It's too bad that it is frowned upon to post pictures
to his newsgroup. A
picture would be much easier to understand.
-Dan
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number
of the battery
connectors
Post by Dan Dunkel
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers?
I tried to find
them on
Post by Dan Dunkel
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web
sites. Without knowing
the
Post by Dan Dunkel
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
Could you describe these? The 'battery connectors'
that came on my ASH
26 are simply crimped on 'ring' style connectors bolted
to the battery
terminals. Perhaps you are thinking of a battery box
supplied by Dittel?
--
Change 'netto' to 'net' to email me directly
Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA
Denis
2004-07-29 20:38:26 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dan Dunkel
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the battery connectors
used by Schleicher--as well as other manufacturers? I tried to find them on
the Mouser Electronics and the McMaster-Carr Web sites. Without knowing the
manufacturer and part number, I couldn't find them.
It a standard DIN connector (don't remember the exact reference). Seems
to be very common in Germany, and impossible to find everywhere else (in
France at least). Get it from the factory !
--
Denis

R. Parce que ça rompt le cours normal de la conversation !!!
Q. Pourquoi ne faut-il pas répondre au-dessus de la question ?
Andy Blackburn
2004-07-31 15:50:16 UTC
Permalink
I still don't understand why you don't just order them
from the Schleicher dealer. I bought a whole fistfull
from Eastern Sailplane (John Murray) last year to ensure
that I'd never run out.

Okay, so figuring out the part number might be fun,
but you still have to find someone who stocks the part.
I don't think Tyco will sell you one or two directly
and lots of the industrial suppliers have minumum order
quantities. I'm betting that even armed with the part
number you won't be able to get these at Ace Hardware.

It's a lot easier to send John an email and be done
with it.

Just a suggestion...

9B
Post by Vaughn
Post by Dan Dunkel
Indeed this page seems to show the parts. The only
quiestion that I have is
whether the receptical (male end) is part number 926474-1
or part number
180907-0. They seem very similar. The page you reference
seems to show
that it is part 926474.
I also need the connectors that go in these holders.
From what I can find
out, they seem to be parts AMP 6-160448-5 (for the
recptical) and AMP
42460-2 (for the tab).
The research continues...
I know it seem almost too obvious but did you
do any research here?
http://www.amp.com/
Vaughn
Dan Dunkel
2004-07-31 17:16:30 UTC
Permalink
I agree. I have a few extra from John as well, but I was just curious as to
why I couldn't find them from other sources in the U.S.

-Dan
Post by Andy Blackburn
I still don't understand why you don't just order them
from the Schleicher dealer. I bought a whole fistfull
from Eastern Sailplane (John Murray) last year to ensure
that I'd never run out.
Okay, so figuring out the part number might be fun,
but you still have to find someone who stocks the part.
I don't think Tyco will sell you one or two directly
and lots of the industrial suppliers have minumum order
quantities. I'm betting that even armed with the part
number you won't be able to get these at Ace Hardware.
It's a lot easier to send John an email and be done
with it.
Just a suggestion...
9B
Post by Vaughn
Post by Dan Dunkel
Indeed this page seems to show the parts. The only
quiestion that I have is
whether the receptical (male end) is part number 926474-1
or part number
180907-0. They seem very similar. The page you reference
seems to show
that it is part 926474.
I also need the connectors that go in these holders.
From what I can find
out, they seem to be parts AMP 6-160448-5 (for the
recptical) and AMP
42460-2 (for the tab).
The research continues...
I know it seem almost too obvious but did you
do any research here?
http://www.amp.com/
Vaughn
Chip Bearden
2004-08-02 21:19:40 UTC
Permalink
My ASW 24 came with a few sets of extra connectors of the type
discussed (in addition to the ones already installed at the battery
boxes). I took one in to my local (U.S.) electronics shop and they
pulled a blister pack of connectors off the rack and gave it to me.
There were versions for 2, 3, 4, etc. pins. U.S. manufacturer but I
don't recall which. Probably for automotive/trailer use. Not an exact
fit for the plastic parts (no doubt U.S. vs. metric dimensions) but
servicable. You'd have to have a spec sheet and calipers in hand to
know it wasn't "factory." But if John Murray has them, it might be
better just to order a handful from him.

Chip Bearden
Post by Dan Dunkel
I agree. I have a few extra from John as well, but I was just curious as to
why I couldn't find them from other sources in the U.S.
-Dan
Post by Andy Blackburn
I still don't understand why you don't just order them
from the Schleicher dealer. I bought a whole fistfull
from Eastern Sailplane (John Murray) last year to ensure
that I'd never run out.
Okay, so figuring out the part number might be fun,
but you still have to find someone who stocks the part.
I don't think Tyco will sell you one or two directly
and lots of the industrial suppliers have minumum order
quantities. I'm betting that even armed with the part
number you won't be able to get these at Ace Hardware.
It's a lot easier to send John an email and be done
with it.
Just a suggestion...
9B
Post by Vaughn
Post by Dan Dunkel
Indeed this page seems to show the parts. The only
quiestion that I have is
whether the receptical (male end) is part number 926474-1
or part number
180907-0. They seem very similar. The page you reference
seems to show
that it is part 926474.
I also need the connectors that go in these holders.
From what I can find
out, they seem to be parts AMP 6-160448-5 (for the
recptical) and AMP
42460-2 (for the tab).
The research continues...
I know it seem almost too obvious but did you
do any research here?
http://www.amp.com/
Vaughn
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